Day 7 - Monday 19th July
Keld to Reeth
12 miles: 6h 25mins

I woke at 4am to the now familiar sound of rain. Slept again until 7:15am. The rain came down heavily now and suddenly was pouring through the roof of the tent onto the bottom of my sleeping bag. I overcame the problem with ingenious use of a pan under a tent pole. I sat and ate breakfast and wrote my log with my feet in the sleeping bag to try to dry it out. It helped. By eight the rain stopped. When I emerged Steve and Stella (mansion tent!) had already gone. I quickly packed everything up and was away by 9:15am. I forgot to pay for the camping in my haste but considering the lack of facilities - a field, a water tap and a public convenience - I had no guilty conscience. I made good progress, stopped to look at Crackpot Hall and then made my first 'error of navigation' of the day. I found myself descending rather than climbing. Quickly backtracked and was soon on the correct path again. Two people behind quickly caught up with me as we climbed East Grain having passed Swinner Gill. They were two teachers, one called Andrew, doing the second half of the Coast to Coast having completed previously the first half in various stages. I walked with them over the top and I was less aware of my feet as we chatted away. They had to make a B&B in Richmond that night so were keen to make good progress. More than once they were pleased with the GPS when the path was less than clear. As we climbed up out of Gunnerside Gill they sped ahead (with their much lighter loads) and that would have been the last I saw of them had they not gone in the wrong direction. I realised the mistake early and climbed up to the correct path where they were just reappearing having become conscious of their error. We walked together again until just before Level House Bridge where I stopped for lunch. It was 12:30pm. I dried my feet and set off again by 1:00pm. On down to Surrender Bridge where I made a mistake by taking the path high up along the river with a scary drop down into the ravine. Saw a group of rabbits one of which was pure black. Realised my error and cut back up to the correct path. Stopped for ten minutes to rest my feet that were becoming sore again. Felt great sympathy for David as I came down into Reeth. What a dreadful path with nettles high on both sides (I had my shorts on!). It was more like a rocky river bed and in the wet would have been lethal. No wonder he slipped!! Arrived in Reeth where every building is a pub, tea room or gift shop but all very pleasant with a holiday atmosphere. Went to the shop and stocked up. Sat outside at the table and drank milk and ate a roll. I'd already decided my feet were too sore to take me any further today and I would stay the night here. Went to the Tourist Office to ask where the campsite was and bumped into Steve and Stella who had already set up their 'mansion'. Walked down to the site (£4), set in an old orchard with well mown grass, and pitched the tent. Had a shower and shave and felt refreshed. Hung my sleeping bag on the fence to dry. Steve and Stellla returned (they come from Middlesborough) and after chatting said they had rung ahead to St Giles Farm (I had told them that David had camped there) and they kindly offered to tie my tent and sleeping bag to their rucksack and send it ahead with the Sherpa. I accepted the offer as I felt this would lighten my load and help my feet to recover. The walk today had been enjoyable if not spectacular and my decision to stop at Reeth a good one. I had time to relax, recover and catch up with my log. I ate soup, pasta (dried in packet with sauce - very easy and quite tasty), peaches (the raspberries had tempted me but we have so many at home) and coffee. At 8pm the rain returned and I retreated to my tent. No telephone reception here so will have to wait until tomorrow.
I seriously thought of giving up today as I walked into Reeth. I had only travelled 12 miles and my feet were hurting - swollen toe and blisters. If the rain has not stopped in the morning I shall wait until it does and then walk to St Giles Farm. Assuming I make that I shall reconsider, as there are some long stretches ahead.

<<Back  Next>>