DAY 3 - Thwaite to Reeth
Tuesday 27th March
2007
13.75miles 9h 54m
Breakfast was served at 8:00am and wanting to
make a swift getaway as there was 15miles of walking to do today. We packed
ready and were in the dining room on the dot. Unfortunately so was everyone
else! Despite being midweek in march the hotel was full (about 30 people -
mostly elderly and only a couple of walkers.) but the service was
prompt and having paid the bill wem departed at around 9:15am. A steep
climb took us up to the east side of Kisdon Hill. The Herriot Way then
takes skirts the west of the hill but I wanted to retrace my footsteps
along the Penine Way to the east of the hill high above Swaledale.
The Swale was just visible through the mist as a thin silver streak. No
dead rabbits this morning but instead a decomposed dead sheep obstructed
the path. Further along we could just make out Crackpot Hall on the
opposite side of the valley and whilst it appeared quite close I knew we
would have to Drop down into Keld and climb back up again before we reached
it. By 11:30am we were crossing the footbridge across the Swale where the
Penine Way, the Coast to Coast and the Herriot Way become one. It is the
half way point for the first two and for the Herriot Way, if you start from
Aysgarth. We sat on the seat above the falls and stripped off as the sun
was quite warm. It was most pleasant and we tarried too long since we had
only completed 3 miles and it was already midday. On up to the ruins of
Crackpot Hall passing the old rusty remains of the vehicle photographed by
so many! The view from the Hall along the valley below can be spectacular
but today the haze spoilt it. On down to Swinner Gill and up East grain and
over the top. I promised Gemma we could have lunch when we reached
Gunnerside Gill by which time it was 2:00pm. We enjoyed lunch and moved off
at 3:00pm with the realisation that we still had nearly 8miles to go. For
once I found a path up onto the luna landscape of Melbecks Moor
(previously I had always ended up scrambling up the hushes). Set off apace
along the track down to Surrender Bridge stopping only to view Old Gang
Smelting Mills with the furnace chimneys built high up into the side of the
hill. At one point I carried Gemma's rucksack and this helped to speed
up. At Surrender Bridge I failed for the third time to locate the bridleway
marked on the map (I don't actually think it exists anymore). After
crossing some rough ground we emerged at the cairn and then continued down
to Cringley Bottom where we stopped and made a welcome cup of tea. We
intended to stay along the route of the Coast to Coast rather drop down to
river and at one point we forked left along a good track that is not even
marked on the map. This contoured around and saved us from losing height
and then having to regain it. By this time it was 6:00pm and I decided to
ring the B&B to inform them of our late arrival. When I turned my phone
on I had a voicemail from them asking me to ring them. I eventually manage
to get through and the son answered and just said 'OK'. The sun was
beginning to set as Reeth came into view. Gemma was feeling very tired and
it was no help that the B&B was on the far side of Reeth. A few doors
before is it a shop and we bought some 'boar' pate and some rolls
and ready made puddings as we were losing the will to go back out to find
somewhere to eat. We knocked on the door of the B&B only to informed by
the lady who came to the door that they were having building work done and
we wouldn't be able to stay there. Our hearts sank but she then
announced that she had arranged another B&B up the road. Seemingly
unaware of our rucksacks and boots she suggested we follow her car! I
pointed out that we were on foot and so she gladly took us in her car. The
B&B was quiet and comfortable and by now we were happy to 'eat
in'. Cup of Soup, boar pate, rolls, salad and dessert. A shower and
then early to bed.