Slept well and had a good breakfast. Very pleasant landlady who had lived in the area her whole life. Away at 9:20am stopping to buy food for the day at the shop on the village green. By 9:40 we had left Reeth and were on our way across the fields towards Grinton. The sun was shining and it was looking set to be a beautiful day. A broad track took us gently up onto Harkerside Moor. We briefly spoke to another couple out for a walk and saw a group of 4 wheel drives and heard shooting in the distance. We stopped for a break around 11:15am by what is marked on the map as an 'Earthwork' but it was impossible to discern anything of note. I made a bench from a fallen post balanced on some piles of rocks so we drank our warm orange juice in comfort. As we approached the highest point, at Apedale Head, it was 1:30pm so we sat by a pile of stones for lunch. This had been a mining area and was fairly desolate. It was still a glorious day and we had put our sun hats on for protection from the UV rays. We moved on after about an hour and from here it was steadily downhill to Dents Houses. Perhaps there had been more of them but all that remains is a bothy presumably for shooting parties. A sharp right turn and it was up over Black Hill towards Castle Bolton. The sky started looking threatening and we wondered if our luck with the good weather would run out. Only the sound of the plovers broke the silence. I promised Gemma tea in the tea room at the castle but didn't expect it to be open. It wasn't and so when we arrived we sat on a bench opposite, brewed our own cuppa and looked at the castle silhouetted by the dying sun. The dark clouds had all but disappeared. It was now 4:30pm and after a short break we continued with still a good 3½miles to go. Passed some very small long haired cows. We were both feeling weary and were glad to glimpse the River Ure as we entered St Joseph's wood at about 17:45pm. We could just see the falls below us but easily resisted the temptation to descend to the viewing platform to admire them more closely. Just after 6:00pm we crossed the bridge over the river and found our B&B on the main road. The landlady had booked us in for a twin room (rather than the double we had expected) but we didn't complain as the room was at the rear and away from any traffic noise. We went to the pub next door for a meal and this turned out to be a disaster. It had an enormous dining room but we were the only patrons. Despite being 'freshly' cooked the food was poor, the service slow, prices high and the room cold!! Back to the B&B for a good night's sleep.