DAY 10 - Porth-y-Waen to Trevor
Saturday 27th August 1983
miles/11hours
Woke refreshed at 6am to find everything outside wet with a heavy dew. Careful manoeuvring was necessary in this area as way marking was not adequate. Yesterday I met two golden lads, twins I suspect, blonde, 6 footers, wearing only denim shorts and boots with beautifully tanned bodies. The conversation was cheerful and friendly. We warned each other on badly way marked sections ahead. They had found the walk much harder than expected, taking nearly four days over what was scheduled for two. I boasted, obliquely, of my age and they looked at each other with astonishment. But to return to Saturday - the walking, along the 800ft contour, was excellent, through pleasant woods and some unexpected open land with a group of dwellings and some seats. But, before Chirk, the Offa's Dyke path was abysmal, narrow and overgrown with brambles, nettles, thistles and, up on the right, much too close for comfort, new BARBED WIRE! Way marking not too good, and, if I haven't climbed 100 styles today I'll eat my hat! I called at a newish, solitary house for water and they gave me two-thirds a bottle. It took 10 minutes to get that much through their water purifier. The drought is causing them problems as their main supply is off the roof. Met a charming couple of walkers staying at Pen-y-Bryn (before Chirk). They directed and preceded me to Chirk Castle - pleasant walking up into the woods with a sudden, startling view of the castle, high above, across the a valley, situated on a bluff reminiscent of Castle Drago. I decided to do the castle, but arrived to find - closed on Saturdays. A few days later, we went by car and decided that the interior was drab and disappointing. Shortly after Chirk, I was astonished to find myself approaching the famous aqueduct - Pont Cysyllte. A viaduct came into view but the path turned left directly away from it, and, for a while I thought the map had gone mad. But the mystery was soon solved. That was the railway viaduct. Pont Cysyllte -1000 ft long and 127 ft high, takes the canal, high above the valley, giving a fine bird's-eye view of the sewage works. The far side was thick with holiday people. The Anglo Welsh Narrow Boat Company is there and the boats were in evidence, particularly two, jammed together in the canal all good fun for the holiday boatmen, I have no doubt. Two small boys with clogs on were about to cross the bridge, but the bigger of the two saw me as a "possible" - asked me where I was going and offered to lead me to the shops. When I crossed the canal he shouted to me; "Not that way Mr!", but I waved goodbye to him. Suddenly I came face to face with my two walking acquaintances from Pen-y-Bryn - just starting their return journey and they gave me useful directions. I called first at a shop and bought milk - drank standing - delicious! - plums, sardines, cheese and oranges, and then civilisation was soon left behind again. At about 5:30pm asked permission to camp in a green field and also received water. It proved difficult to find a smooth spot - cow-foot holes everywhere - but I found one at last and was soon ensconced in my little home, stuffing delicious plums into my innards, with the westering sun beaming in upon me, my boots and socks off and all at peace! What wonderful moments are such as these! Sewed a shirt button on, ate a leisurely meal, drank deep of my water bottle and went to sleep early.
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