DAY 4 - Hay to Kington
Tuesday 17th May 1983
miles/ hours

The weather looks 'promisingly doubtful' and remained so all day, with waterproofs going on and coming off more times than I like to remember. I became quite adept - rucksack off, coat on, rucksack on, in about 20 seconds, if the zip went first time! The open front coat is a great advantage over the cagoule. You can have it on and protecting you in a few seconds and then turn your back on the rain while you don the trousers. The walking today was very good, but entailed a great deal of climbing over lesser hills and a long pull up from a Gladestry onto the Hergest Ridge. At Gladestry a joyful surprise - a tiny shop open so I had a pint of milk and an Aero bar to help me on my way. This ridge was the great contrast to the Hatterrall Ridge of yesterday. The path is wide, smooth, firm and green. The landscapes are superb. Sheep and ponies grazed peacefully and white concrete posts marked the way. The ponies used them for scratching posts. At Newchurch I'd met two ladies going south and they were the type who I was sure would not heed my warning not to go along the Hatterrall Ridge. Then, at a tap with a poem engraved tablet, I met two exceedingly pleasant lads also going south and they were grateful for the warning. Then a group of a man and two women going from Kington to Newchurch. I debated the matter of camp as I descended to Kington and a sky, now completely grey, from which issued quantities of cold water inspired me to press the bell at the Royal Oak ,- the "Last in England". Sophisticated Margaret, ersatz charm, high heels, red lips and all, showed me, when I had removed my boots, to a tiny front bedroom without washing facilities. However a bathroom was near and also the WC with no electric light. She then introduced me to a smart Derek, her husband, and supplied a good plate of fish, chips, peas and tinned carrots, followed by the inevitable apple pie and cream - but cold alas! So once more I was wallowing in luxury, including a welcome shower. Hergest Court is here. Seat of the Vaughans, one of whom Black Vaughan was killed at the Battle of Banbury during the Wars of the Roses 1469. The house was the seat of Welsh Culture and the Red Book of Hergest is in the Bodleian All that historic glory did not alter the fact that not only did the WC have no light but also ones feet didn't touch the floor (giving delusions of child hood!) and the flap would not stay up! Heights yesterday: 1500:1743:1810:1983:2091:2306: and today 900:1036:1150:920:1184:1261:1130:1390:1310. Of course between most of these was a considerable descent! I slept well after midnight.
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