Day 10 - Wednesday 10th May, 2006
Middleton on Tees to High Cup Nick
16.5 miles: 9h 45mins

I woke at 6:30am. My body still felt tired and I contemplated staying in bed. On reflection I reasoned that today's walk along the river should be relatively easy and better to arise early and have a rest half way. I got up, had breakfast and was packed and on my way by 8:30am. It was a glorious day, blue sky and sunshine, and it was promising to be a scorcher. I was glad I had set off early. The walk along the river was very pleasant with wood anemones, celandine, bluebells and violets adorning the ground. I stopped at Low Force (10:00am) for a Mars and some water and put on sun screen and my sun hat. I reached high force by 11:00am and entered the Nature Reserve. A board told of rare gentian violets and one eyed primroses but I saw none. Passed a group of boys and two women, one of whom said 'good morning' and the other 'guten tag' from which I deduced they were German! A little later I met another group of 4 boys only one whom managed a 'grunt' when I greeted them with a bright 'hello'! I passed three men, who had been 5minutes ahead of me, when they stopped for lunch. We chatted briefly. I left the Nature reserve as I crossed the bridge to the other side of the river. A few hundred yards further an elderly couple were sitting on the bank and he excitedly told me of gentian violets and one eyed primroses a little further along the path and sure enough there they were. I was now feeling hungry and weak in the legs so I stopped for lunch at 12:30pm. I took my boots off and hung my socks and towel in the sum to dry. I lay in the sun and snoozed. Suddenly it was 1:45pm. I set off, refreshed, still following the river. I met one man with a long stick, which he used to steady his binoculars, and three people, elderly man, wife and daughter, from Nottingham. Soon I was ascending Cauldrons Spout - quite impressive with several cyclists having come over to view it. On over the top. Once again plovers made swooping movements over my head. One landed on the other side of the wall so I quietly went up to it and looked over. There, almost invisible in the grass, were three chicks running around! My legs were tired and my feet aching. As I approached a foot bridge over the river I still had 7 miles to go to Dufton. I stopped and made a cup of tea, ate a Kit Kat and bathed my feet in the cool water. This, together with the caffeine and sugar worked wonders. My feet were no longer aching and I moved much more quickly. Although I had decided I would look for a place to camp by High Cup Nick (3miles short of Dufton) I now felt I might continue past Dufton. As I walked along Narrow Gate - a narrow path above High Cup Gill - there was not only no flat ground to pitch a tent there was no water to be found. Then I came to a small spring which I reckoned could provide enough water. Above it looked to be an area of flat ground so I scrambled up to find a disused quarry. It was both flat and sheltered and I could now see, only a few yards further, a roaring stream of beautiful clean water. I had chanced upon the ideal spot. It was around 6:15pm. I pitched tent, fetched water, washed, made some soup and rang Gemma and texted David. I ate some dinner rounded off with coffee but now the sun had gone I was glad to creep into my tent out of the cold. (8:45pm). If yesterday had been a little monotonous then today was an absolute contrast. I had not seen a single cloud in the sky and the scenery had been varied and spectacular particularly the upper reaches of the Tees.

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