Up at 6:30am. I had slept well. A quick breakfast, pack up and away by 7:45am. When I awoke I thought I heard the faint roar of traffic but concluded it was the stream but now in the distance I could see a road with lorries thundering along it. Could this be the M6? It was an easy downhill track but despite this the sun was beating down from a clear blue sky and I was already sweating. I passed a man out walking and he informed me that the weather would break tomorrow and rain was forecast for the next week!!! I reached the shop in Dufton at 8:55am and found it closed. I checked on the door and it should open at 9:00am. A few seconds later a lady appeared and opened up. I bought some provisions including two freshly made cheese sandwiches, two bottles of lucozade - one I drank - and an ice cream that I ate walking along.
On reaching Knock Gill I was hot and sweating prolifically. I removed my trouser bottoms, bathed my feet in the ice cold water, washed my face and drank as much of this 'free' water as I could. The 'easy' going got harder as I reached the steepest section of the day. As the ground began to level off it was 11:00am so I stopped, ate a Mars and drank ½ a bottle of lucozade. So far I was feeling good and being higher there was now a cool breeze. Eventually I reached Great Dun Fell and its dome just before 1:00pm and after passing the summit decided to stop for lunch. A man appeared and stopped and chatted. He wasn't walking the Pennine Way. He came from Nottingham and had been made redundant, taken up gardening and now did landscape gardening as a business. He said the forecast for the next 2 days was good! I set off again about 1:35pm and caught with the man having his lunch on Cross Fell.Talked again and then carried on. It was more or less downhill all the way to Gargill. My feet were aching so I stopped again to bathe them in a stream and inserted a piece of faom in my sock to try to ease the pressure on my right little toe which was very swollen. It helped. The way now was a track strewn in most places with loose stones. I tried to make good progress in order to reach Gargill before the shop closed. The stones were hard on the feet. I caught up and passed an American doing Hebden Bridge to Keld. He was an elderly man who was making slow steady progress. As I entered Gargill it was just after 5:00pm. An amazingly sleepy village typified by a little girl (probably around 7) just sitting in the road. I reached the shop at 5:15pm. Rather incongruously for this sleepy village it was all boarded up as though it was an inner city area. It closed at 5pm! A walker was sitting at a picnic table sipping a pint so I walked across to him, took off my rucksack and commented: "At leas the pub is open". I bought a pint of shandy and asked if they had any food. Only chocolate and nuts came the reply. I said I was sick of chocolate but would have some nuts. I rejoined the man at the picnic table and chatted about walking. He was from Gateshead and had gradually been walking sections of the Tyne. Now he had reached its source. He was staying at a B&B in the village but that evening they could not provide a meal and the pub wasn't serving either as the cook was ill. He would have to go hungry!!
The sun was still shining and the rest and shandy revitalised me so I decided ot move on to reach Alston before the Co-op closed at 8pm. The last mile into Alston seemed endless but just before I reached the road into town there were four boys sitting on a bench. I said 'Hello' and one replied: "Are you one of them walkers?" "Depends what you mean", I replied. We got into conversation and they asked about walking, camping, etc. and told me how to get to the Co-op, (which didn't close until 10pm now) and the campsite. I stocked up on food, walked round to the campsite, by which time it was 7:30pm, paid my £4, pitched the tent and had a tea of cereal, followed by minced beef and onions in gravy with new potatoes and pear halves for dessert. I texted Dave and Gemma and turned in about 10:30pm
I had enjoyed the first half of the day with the climb up to Cross Fell but the descent to Gargill was monotonous and hard going. The walk to Alston would have been a pleasant evening stroll if my feet hadn't been aching. The camp site is a strange place. You enter it through a junk yard but there is a nice grassy area to pitch your tent far enough from the road to be relatively quiet. The toilet block is entered via a tunnel made from a cylindrical steel tank with two 'doors' cut into it. The toilet block itself is beneath the owner's bungalow and centrally heated but hardly luxurious and gives the feeling of being part of a horror movie!