Day 12 - Friday 12th May, 2006
Alston to Greenhead
17.1 miles: 9h 33mins

Slept like a log until 6:40am. A few minutes later I heard some rain drops which quickly became heavier. I lay there for a while and then decided to write my log. At around 8:00am the rain ceased. I had breakfast and cleared up and was away by 10:00am. After about an hour walking the rain returned and I donned my waterproofs. It only lasted about ½hour and I stopped, ate a Mars and had a drink. I decided I would walk on a section of disused railway that would be easier than the Pennine Way proper. As I climbed up onto the embankment a beautiful carpet of soft green grass lay before me. Heaven! I passed several groups of cheerful school children released from the 'prison' of the classroom for the day! Just after noon I saw a man sitting on a wall by a bridge and stopped to talk. He was doing the Pennine Way from north to south but today had left his load in Greenhead, caught a bus to Alstom and was walking this stretch from south to north, We continued together and headed for the pub at Knarsdale by when it was around 1:30pm. I ordered a beefburger with chips (home made) which came with some salad. On entering Knarsdale there had been a barbed wire fence with a string of moles hanging from the barbs. We enquired about this and were told that a mole catcher received £2.50 for each mole he caught and this was the evidence. I texted Gemma and departed the pub around 2:45pm eventually leaving the disused railway and cut back to the Pennine Way. It was still a good way to go, my legs were tired and feet sore but at least there had been no more rain since we left the pub. Mitch (the man I had met) was from Bletchley and was around my age. He was clearly quite fit an on any uphill section he raced ahead. He was so determined to 'travel light' on this day he had not even (unwisely perhaps) brought his rain clothes with him. When he arrived by bus in Alstom it had been pouring down and the lady at the tea shop had leant him a colourful umbrella. We plodded on and by 7:00pm we were within a mile of Greenhead. It was looking very grey and dark to the east and rain looked almost inevitable. It was a fresh but not cold evening. And then suddenly within seconds an icy wind hit us. The temperature must have dropped 5°C almost instantly. We hastened our step to try and keep warm and beat the rain. We arrived in Greenhead at 7:30pm, exchanged email addresses and went our separate ways - Mitch to the Youth Hostel and I a short distance uphill to the camp site. It was well kept, very clean and a good hot shower. I pitched the tent and as I did so the rain started. The outer tent had developed a small hole in one spot in the middle so I spread the emergency blanket over the top of the inner tent in case the rain continued during the night. I had the site almost to myself except for one caravan. I showered and tended my wounds and contemplated what to do the next day. I decided a short walk part way to Bellingham or if the weather was really bad a train home from Haltwhistle. I ate some soup and bread and a tin of fruit salad with coffee and chocolate whilst I phoned Gemma. It was 10:30pm and within minutes I was asleep in my tent.

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