Day 13 - Saturday 13th May, 2006
Greenhead to Stonehaugh
14.9 miles: 7h 52mins

I woke just before 8:00am having slept well. I felt tired. Although I had not heard any rain in the night I now heard the occasional drops on the tent. Everything was damp. The emergency blanket was a mixed blessing. The underside was sopping with condensation. The groundsheet was also wet. I think it lets moisture through which, when it can't evaporate, turns to water. Under a plastic bag was swimming. Maybe the tent has finally had its day after over 25years of use. I eventually stirred at 8:20am. The rain had stopped so I hung everything over the picnic table where it dried out almost completely. I ate some breakfast, wrote my log and decided I should just aim for Twice Brewed (7miles), where there is another camp site, or possibly further depending on how I felt. I tended my wounds and placed strategic pieces of foam in my right sock to protect my big and little toes. I cleared up, washed and paid my £4. By now it was 11:15am. A cloudy day with a cool, some might say cold, easterly breeze. I headed out of town and up towards Hadrian's Wall. After looking at the ruins of Thirlwell Castle I carried on uphill the wrong way! Back down again and over a footbridge where a cottage offered refreshments. I resisted temptation! I reacheed Hadrian's Wall - not much of a wall at this point but more a mound of earth - and by midday came across a cafe in an old quarry. I bought coffee and chocolate shortcake. I was shortly joined by an amicable group of walkers doing the Hadrian's Wall walk. At this stage it was a novelty. I left then and thought they might catch and pass me but they didn't. At first I felt tired but I made steady progress and the weather was pleasant. I lost count of the people who passed me. With some I chatted whilst others (probably foreigners!!) barely acknowledged my 'Hello'. Two ladies were doing a LDW for the first time but then at an easy pace of not more than 10miles/day. At one point I stopped to drink from my water sack but it was empty despite not having used it until then! I had noticed a small amount had leaked out onto the seat of the picnic table at the campsite - in fact it had all leaked out! It was 3:00pm and I had not stopped since the cafe. I decided to press on as the map showed some streams a little further ahead. As fate would have it they were all dry. At last I left the wall at about 4:15pm. If the Pennine Way is a country lane then Hadrian's Wall is a motorway. I welcomed the peace and quiet and at 4:30pm I came across a stream - a heron flew off as I approached - where I stopped for a cup of tea and sandwiches. I contemplated what to do. Whilst on the wall progress had been steady and I had not felt tired and my wounds were not troubling me. I had decided to carry on further - but where to. Bellingham would be too far - at least 10:00pm before I reached it - and there were no obvious camping spots on the map around 5 miles before I reached it. I calculated that a diversion to the camp site a Stonehaugh would only add a mile to the journey and I would have 7 miles to go the next morning to Bellingham. I hoped the Country Store would be open as I was in need of gas for my stove. My main cannister was almost empty leaving only my small reserve supply. At a push it would have to do. I continued through forest and open country and the clouds started disintegrating and the sun came through. My feet ached less than yesterday, despite having walked almost as far. My pack seemed lighter - it was, 2kg of water less and my jacket which I had worn all day. I reached the campsite soon after 7:00pm, paid £6 and discovered that the site ran on solar and wind power. There was even a bath and I decided to have one! Of course the water was luke warm. What do you expect from solar heating on a cold cloudy day?! Having pitched the tent and had the 'bath' I ate a tea of soup, pasta and chocolate - no fruit tonight as there had been no shops on this leg of the journey. I had to warm the gas cannister inside my jacket to get enough power for my coffee. I sat at a picnic table in the setting sun. I didn't have the site to myself but I may as well as done as I pitched my tent at one end of the very large field and everyone else was at the far end. Virtually no telephone reception so I couldn't phone Gemma but I had texted her earlier just in case and did receive one back when I first arrived. Later when I went to bed I was able to get reception and spoke with her briefly. As I closed the tent and slid down into my sleeping bag I pulled it right up over my head. It was a cold night.

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