Had a good night and was not really disturbed. Woke just before 7:00am, got up and sat outside to eat breakfast of muesli, juice, 2 boiled eggs, bread and butter and coffee. Most of the other campers were still snoring (literally!) It was overcast but the wind had gone. Set off about 8:45am after saying farewell to fellow campers. Walked up a long lane, over some fields and down to the River Aire. Easy, pleasant walking but by 10:45am I was feeling tired and decided to stop for a 'coffee break'. Saw yellow wagtails and goldfinches. Constant smell of sewage - passed three sewage farms before Malham where I arrived around midday. Met only one other person before Malham - a woman with her son who had done the Pennine Way when she was 17. It strikes me that I have met more people who had done the PW than doing it! (only one so far). Ice cream shop in Malham was closed so no ice cream! A pretty enough village but overrun by walkers. It has a large outdoor clothing shop but no general store for groceries! On up to Malham Cove - a valley or 'cirque' carved out by a glacier in the ice age. A constant stream of people. I walked the last few hundred yards with a couple and chatted pleasantly. Two peregrine falcons were in residence and the RSPB had set up telescopes for the public to look at them. The two 'adult' ones were both in use so I knelt by the childrens' one and obligingly the male descended to perch by the female, who was busily devouring a jackdaw, only to be rejected! There are some sports climbs on this shear and overhanging limestone face. Needless to say I chose the easy route up the steps to one side. On to Malham Tarn and a lunch stop around 1:50pm. Suddenly someone called to me. It was the two chaps who had been next to me at the camp site in Gargarve. They had moved on to a better site and were out for a 'stroll'. As i was eating my bread a man walked up, took off his rucksack and proceeded to eat his lunch. I was a little miffed as I had intended to have a nap. I curtailed my lunch break and continued on leaving behind me 'the crowds' out walking in the neighbourhood of the cove. Onwards and upwards. I was beginning to feel weary and quickly exhausted my water with not enough for a cup of tea despite having filled up in Malham. These limestone hills should be oozing water but they weren't. Every spring was dry. Then I found a bottle of water and had a feeling of deja vue. (day 2). It wasn't sealed but the water inside looked perfectly fresh. At least I could boil it for a cup of tea. Then at 3:59pm precisely a sparkling stream appeared across the path. This was my pre-ordained stop for tea! It was pleasantly warm and I closed my eyes. The next thing I knew it was 4:50pm! I moved off feeling refreshed and soon reached the summit of around 640m, at 5:30pm. On the other side of the valley was a very ominous looking Pen y Ghent! I realised I would have to descend to 420m before climbing to the top of the 694m peak. It went more easily than expected although the most tedious part was, having climbed the steep section, finding a longish albeit less steep path to the actual summit now in cloud. I reached it just before 7:30pm. Texted Dave. Descended rapidly passing a lone walker on his way up. The last mile, although not difficult, seemed the longest but by 8:30pm I reached the camp site in Horton. I pitched my tent close to two other PW’ers. They were interested in the tent and amazed it was 30 years old. Also amazed that I had just walked form Gargrave, a distance of almost 21 miles. We chatted a little and it transpired that they met on Saturday in a full camp site at Crowden and decided to continue together. I ate soup, pasta and peach slices and then phoned Gemma. It had been a long day and before I turned in it was passed 11:00pm.