Awoke in the night and heard rain. The camp site was noisy from the road alongside and the toilets etc. were minimal. I learnt that it was fully booked for the weekend. Got up just after 7:00am. Breakfast of muesli, bread, hard boiled egg and coffee. Packed up leisurely and spoke briefly to fellow campers. I stocked up with provisions at the shop and, since they had no small loaf bought a fruit malt loaf which I imagined would be delicious. Eventually started walking about 10:00am. At around 11:30am I stopped by a stream, that disappeared into a pothole, just as a couple from Somerset departed. A yellow wagtail sang and wagged the whole time I was there. I cut a slice of malt loaf and, to my dismay, it tasted disgusting! Goodness knows how long it had been in the shop but it was no longer edible. I tossed it into the bracken! Set off again and soon caught the other couple and passed them. Weather was overcast with sun breaking through occasionally. Cool with a strong breeze. My eyes started watering so I stopped and put on my sun glasses which helped to protect them. The path was a track – one section a Roman road – but it was ‘cobbled’ and was hard going on the feet. It rose steadily alongside the valley up to 585m. Passed a dead sheep and a dead mole. About 1:00pm I came across a couple of Americans just finishing lunch. Spoke briefly and then continued. I wanted to reach the high point before my lunch. Stopped at 1:40pm and at 2:05b the Americans passed after which I fell asleep and awoke feeling refreshed. Now it was downhill all the way to Hawes. Well almost all the way!! Caught the Americans resting again about 1½ miles from Hawes. Sat and chatted to them for 20mins and then continued ahead into Hawes. Three chaps sitting outside a pub greeted me. They had also camped at Horton – 2 walking the PW whilst the third was acting as ‘sherpa’ for them as he hurt his back. Bought provisions at the Spar shop. Very busy and I was not used to traffic anymore!! Walked the 1½ miles to Hardraw and found the camp site situated well off the road and very pleasant and clean. Had a shower, washed some clothes and walked the few hundred yards to the pub for a pint of shandy. Phoned Gemma from the box as no mobile reception. Back for a meal of chili con carne, fruit salad and coffee. I set my alarm for 5:00am and was asleep well before 10:00pm.