I woke a couple of times in the might but slept reasonably well. Got up at 6:30am and had porridge and fig rolls for breakfast to eke out my bread for lunch. I hoped to make Middleton by 6pm. Away by 8:20am. Lovely bright morning and the wind seemed to have dropped but once I had climbed out of Keld it was back. I stopped at around 10am to eat a Mars bar and have a drink as I was feeling quite hungry. As I resumed walking I met a man going the other way. He was doing the Coast to Coast but had spent the night at Tan Hill Inn which he assured me was definitely open. A few minutes later a couple appeared also doing the Coast to Coast. At about 10:20am I reached the Inn and went inside. The 'staff' were just starting their breakfast so gave me a coffee and we chatted pleasantly. I sat on a chair by the fire totally failing to notice a lamb at my feet fast asleep. I ordered a bacon bap and two cheese sandwiches to take with me. While I waited one of the men gave me a bottle to feed the lamb. It woke it up and it sucked vigorously on the bottle until 2/3rds was gone and then immediately fell back to sleep again. The bap arrived and the man declared that 'all Dutch people were 'weird'. (The man I had met had apparently been Dutch but his English had been so good I hadn't noticed). This was the pub that featured in the double glazing ads about 30 years ago and is the highest in England. I departed around 11am and set off across Bowes Moor. I found it pleasant if not somewhat monotonous walking. Lots of plovers today that were afraid I would find their nests. They performed all sorts of aerial acrobatics to try and attract my attention. Just after the split with Bowes loop I met some people out for the day. I could hear the A66 although not yet see it. A curlew flew up form only a few feet in front of me. The closest I have ever seen one. I stopped for lunch just after 1:00pm but was still fairly full from the bacon bap! I carried on and passed through the tunnel under the A66 and from here on it seemed like a series of ups and then downs into the next little valley. I stopped at Clove Lodge to ask if I could refill my water bottle but no one was at home so I helped myself from an outside tap. It was sunny but not too warm thanks to a cool breeze. At 4;00pm I paused to make a cup of tea as i was feeling quite tired and my legs were barely able to pull me uphill. At one point as I crossed a small stream something shot away through a hole in the wall. It was in fact a duck which fled leaving a group of its ducklings to fend for themselves. Bt 6:30pm I finally finished the last climb and it was now downhill all the way to Middleton with the campsite in sight. A plover repeatedly dive bombed me veering off behind me only once it was a couple of metres from my head. I reached the camp site (£4) at 7:10pm. I was the only person there although another arrived later. I pitched my tent, walked the ¾mile into town, for provisions at the Co-op, (the woman at the till said she didn't like Arabs and asked if I did!), rang Gemma, ate dinner - grapefruit, sausages, baked beans, mash and peach slices - showered and retired soon after 10pm. Despite the campsite being next to the road I was too tired to be troubled by it.