DAY 12 - Moel Llanfair to Tremeirchion
Monday 29th August 1983
miles/12 hours 50 mins
In the morning (Bank Holiday Monday) I rose at six and the dawn was a gorgeous scarlet flame. Away at 6:55 and fine walking to Clwyd Gate. Then the long but easy climb up to Fammau at 1850 feet. Beyond that came down to a picnic point on a road and met an elderly gent named - Piers - a keen walker from Llandyrnog. Had a long chat with him and encouraged him to join the Ramblers Association. I was out of water so he obliged with a drink of water laced with orange juice. Later met a pleasant gent who thought I would reach Bodfari in time for a draft of bitter which I did with ease. He was aiming at the Llandyrnog with similar intent. This being bank holiday, was a busy spot, with plenty of cars rushing about and a pub veritably steaming with customers, both inside and out on the spacious lawns. I found a seat close to two middle-aged people waiting for their dinner. They "lighted up" and the smoke drove me to move from my seat, to sit opposite to them at their table. I don't think they were in the least aware why I moved. The pub was the Downing Arms. I had plaice (from the freezer), chips, apple pie and cream, plus the usual one-and-a-half pints. There was a little general store close by where a little, bald gentleman showed me great courtesy and kindness, so that I wished I could have spent more money there. He told me of the record of 58½ hours for the whole of the Offa's Dyke path and also of a very small lady who had taken 15 years. I telephoned Marjorie and agreed with her that from here on the way would be virtually level going. Never was anything so woefully incorrect! The path shot up almost vertically for a mile or so, at the hottest part of the day, with my belly full of beer and food, mainly through close, overgrown woods. However, I pushed steadily, if slowly, onward. Two big strong lads passed. "Finishing it tonight?" I asked. "Not likely" they replied. Evening, and I searched for a farm or a farmer for camping permission. No farm, no farmer. Time passed. Decided to take a chance in a green field. Found a site, got out tent and laid it out, but had an uncomfortable feeling about it, so packed up and moved on. The path, at last, left the road and entered a large, empty green field, so, once again out came tent and pegs and I set to work. The ground was rock-hard. Pegs only went in about one-and-a-half inches. Every time I put the poles up, one side would come loose. At last the outer tent was up and all pegs holding-just! I straightened up and turned round. A great herd of cows had appeared! Down with the tent and off again. Came to a village. 7:45pm now and my need was urgent. Excuse me, is there a farm near here? I want permission to camp. He pointed me to a man just about to move off in a Land-Rover. I just caught him and yes - anywhere on that mountain. The mountain was all lumps and hummocks, with bits of limestone all over the place, but a few minutes searching found me a nice flat bit of short grass, and, wonder of wonders the pegs went straight in up to the hilt!!! The tent went up in record time in spite of offensive geese and indignant sheep. How thankful I was to be in and closed - it was getting cold - and snug. The night was a cold one and I had my pullover on and slept well.
<Back Next>